Matthias Hild, who farms about six hectares in the sleepy town of Wincheringen, told me that back in the 1980s, when he’d have an Elbling clock in at less than 8.5 grams acid, he’d taste it and question if it was Elbling at all. Which is sort of like saying you’re not sure the music is loud enough because your ears aren’t bleeding. Matthias Hild also farms one-fifteenth of a hectare of terraced vineyards of old-vine Elbling, the oldest of which are in their 70s. The wine these old vines produce is called “Zehnkommanull” (which translates to “10.0”), because these seniors, even in the ripest of vintages, just don’t produce sugar, thus
the bone-dry fermented wine is never higher than 10% ABV. - Vom Boden