Rimbert’s wines indeed sport an irresistible fruity character. Both the Travers de Marceau, the domaine’s first red wine named after Rimbert’s son Marceau born during those challenging beginnings, and its more robust, “serious” Mas au Schiste sibling (the name is a double entendre on the soils and the French pronunciation of the word “masochist”) offer freshness and elegance that you don’t always find in the sun-drenched Mediterranean. This easygoing style is even further showcased in Cousin Oscar, a light red made of Cinsault and Pinot Noir grapes that is hyper-popular for both its easy-drinking character and vintage-looking label. Jean-Marie made the collage himself (“just took some scissors and old posters”); the phrase “on se l’arrache” (“we’re fighting over him”), originally meant as a jibe to the eponymous relative popular with ladies, now works as a fitting comment on the wine’s success. -